I wasn't sure what expect from Buenos Aires before we got to it. From my initial research describing it as the Paris of South America, a international fashion hub, with world class nightlife, restaurants and culture, I wanted to spend a large chunk of time there. But after a underwhelming impression of Santiago, and some reports for other travellers that ¨It´s just a big city¨, I was a little more hesitant to spend (and I mean spend, time is a precious currency to us with so much to see and do) so much time there. As we arrived on the freeway we could see row after row of apartment buildings, lots of cars, big roads (oddly, a semi pulling a load of live cattle... judging from their sizes, future steaks of the restaurants) it was living up to the big city description. But after navigating the dizzying hive of the international bus station, the taxi ride to the hotel along bustling tree line boulevards dotted with classic looking building, we were charmed. Yes, it is a big city. A Big Charming Exciting Vibrant City. We wandered the streets of downtown, salivating over shop windows filled with shoes and purses. We strolled through the parks, enjoying the botanical garden, and oasis to stray cats, guarded from the city´s dog population by a iron fence. We lingered the neighborhoods that could easily steal away your day, comfy corner cafes and shops, a pleasant feeling completely different from the pounding pulse of downtown. But, as I feel with all destinations, it´s who you meet that makes the place. Mom and I met up with a friend of Ian´s, Sabina, down from San Francisco to house sit at a friend of a friend´s apartment in Palermo. We had such a lovely time with her, indulging in Vietnamese food so expensive no person in Vietnam could afford, ogling goods at San Telmo´s famous market, sharing a pitcher of sangria in a square watching tango dancers. After several days, with one day trip to Colonia Uruguay, a sleepy little colonial (would you have ever guessed it?) town, we left the city and headed to the jungle.
We arrived in Puerto Iguazu to a hostel that looked like club med overrun by a frat party. The atmosphere was predatory, and I grew frustrated with the lack of genuine people to connect with. After a few false starts, where I´d chat to someone for a minute, and we´d both enjoy the company, suddenly, a switch would go off and they would remember their primary mission: finding someone to hook up with. Whatever, Mom and I had better things to do- like go to Iguazu Falls.
The legend of how Iguazu formed: a young warrior was paddling his maiden love down the river, but the river god was jealous and split the river in two, separating the lovers, turning her into a rock at the bottom of the falls and the warrior into a tree at the top, leaning over looking for her. I don´t feel like petty jealously could create something so monumental, so grand and spectacular. The power of the falls is thrilling, especially the provocatively named devils throat, even in dry season (now), and the surrounding park is lush jungle populated by the most lovely butterflies in such quantities as to drive a photographer mad with so many perfect picture possibilities. I think I took more picture of butterflies than I did of waterfalls, and there are a lot of waterfalls. All in all, a wonderful place, a wonderful day. Now, Mom and I are going to soak up one last day of rest in luxury before we embark on an epic 23 hour bus ride followed by another 9 hour bus ride into Bolivia. Here's hoping we survive it and not run away like scared little girls!
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